It began as a way to bring New Orleanians back into the French Quarter at a time when the locals had all but abandoned it, to remind them of all that the world-renowned neighborhood had to offer. But now, as it celebrates its 40th anniversary, the annual French Quarter Festival welcomes guests from all over, and close to a million of them are expected to make their way to the Vieux Carre for four days of fun April 13 to 16.
Still, despite its growth, French Quarter Fest remains at its heart a local festival.
"It's really still a big block party, a street party, when it comes down to it," said Emily Madero, the CEO of French Quarter Festivals Inc., which puts together the annual event and several others in the Crescent City throughout the year. "There are 20 music stages, but because there are so many of them and they're spread out enough, you're not battling crowds of people. It still has that intimate feel."
While the festival itself is attracting visitors from all around the world, the main attractions remain of the homegrown variety.
The French Quarter Festival kicks off in true New Orleans style with a Bourbon Street parade. Photo Credit: Cedric Ellsworth
It all gets going on Thursday in unmistakable New Orleans fashion, with a parade down Bourbon Street led by marching bands, second-liners and the city's famed dancing, masking Baby Dolls. An opening ceremony will be held at Jackson Square, followed by a riverfront concert by the long-reigning "Soul Queen of New Orleans," Irma Thomas, and a fireworks show.
The big draws to the festival are the same as they were 40 years ago: the dozens of restaurants and food vendors and the hundreds of musical acts from in and around the city who keep the party rocking throughout the Quarter and along the riverfront.
Street food, N'awlins style
All the Cajun and Creole favorites will be dished out at stands in Jackson Square and at the Old U.S. Mint (now home to the New Orleans Jazz Museum), Jax Brewery and several spots along the river. During the early days of the festival, vendors were concentrated around Jackson Square as part of what was called the World's Largest Jazz Brunch. But now, visitors are never too far from an alligator sausage, a catfish po'boy or a crawfish pie as they meander from one performance or activity to the next.
Among the participants are some of the boldface names of the New Orleans restaurant scene, from Dickie Brennan's and Tujague's to Jacques-Imo's. Some of the city's new wave of culinary sensations are also in the mix.
"The chance to have that fine dining experience right there on the street, at an affordable price -- you're not going to get that at any other time in the city," Madero said.
A musical gumbo
Jazz, zydeco, R&B, swamp pop, hip-hop -- there's room for every musical genre on the festival's 20 stages. And all performances are free, with most taking place on the riverfront or on Royal and Bourbon streets.
In addition to Irma Thomas, acts that are sure to pack 'em in are perennial NOLA favorites like Kermit Ruffins & the Barbecue Swingers, Rockin' Dopsie Jr. & the Zydeco Twisters, Charmaine Neville and Delfeayo Marsalis. Not to mention enough brass bands to lead a month's worth of second lines.
Crowd enjoys a performance at the Omni Royal Orleans stage at the 2022 French Quarter Festival. Hundreds of the city's top artists will entertain at this year's festival. Photo Credit: French Quarter Festival
"One of the things we're most excited about this year are all the new artists who will be on our stages," Madero said. "I think we have 50 performers making their French Quarter Festival debut. We try to strike a balance between our living legends, who are always so popular here, and providing a platform for all the rising talent in this city."
While most of the year the French Quarter is thought of as a theme park for grown-ups, the festival is very much a family-friendly affair.
Always a popular stop for families is the Chevron Children's Stem Zone, held at the riverfront on Saturday and Sunday. Kids have an opportunity to explore, learn and have fun with a variety of activities, and there's a music stage with a lineup filled with young artists and performers whose music appeals to the younger set.
"My kids are in the fourth and sixth grades. I keep waiting for them to grow out of Stem Zone, but it's still their first stop every time. It's a perennial favorite," Madero said.