I never intended to spend a ton of time in Baja California. But after unforeseen circumstances (a hurricane) took control of my itinerary last fall, I found myself "stranded" in Ensenada for longer than I had planned. What started as a headache turned into a brilliant learning opportunity and a discovery of one of the coolest states in Mexico.
Baja California occupies the northern half of the Baja peninsula. I was driving the entirety of the 700-plus-mile peninsula from Los Cabos to Valle de Guadalupe, with every intention of turning around and heading back down. But Hurricane Kay had other plans as she tore across the midsection of the peninsula, disrupting the highways for days and leaving me stuck without a way to get back south. I'm so glad it worked out the way that it did because it allowed me to experience a place in Mexico I had never experienced before, which has now become a place I am itching to get back to.
Restaurants along Avenida Lopez Mateos. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
The landscape of Baja California is dramatic, to say the least. The environment switches from barren desert with nothing but the silhouettes of saguaro cactus as far as the eye can see to winding rocky mountain passes, highways that skirt the Sea of Cortez, sprawling beaches in San Felipe, undulating hills and valleys of wine country and, of course, the entertainment, restaurants and beaches of Ensenada, Rosarito and Tijuana.
Eating in Ensenada
Ensenada became our home base as we rode out the waiting period until the highways were up and running to get us back down south. But first, we started with wine country in Valle de Guadalupe.
Baja California's wine region produces 70 percent of the wine in Mexico and is comprised of more than 150 wineries over several valleys: Valle de Guadalupe, San Antonio de las Minas, Ojos Negros, Santo Tomas, San Vicente, La Grulla, Tanama, Las Palmas and San Valentin. Valley de Guadalupe is arguably the most famous, and is host to the annual Valle Food & Wine Festival, which brings top chefs from across Mexico and the U.S. The valley is just 30 minutes away from Ensenada and can be a standalone destination or a great daytrip from the city.
The dancing fountains at Ventana al Mar. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
While Ensenada does have a raucous, energetic, party-heavy side, it is a very safe destination, and tourists should feel very confident exploring the area. The main drag is along Avenida Lopez Mateos, which has the highest concentration of restaurants and bars and is within walking distance of the waterfront malecon. Tip: Visit Ventana al Mar, the waterfront plaza underneath the massive, billowing Mexican flag. The in-ground fountains at the plaza do a synchronized show with music and lights.
Since Baja California is such a prestigious wine and craft beer destination, it's no surprise that its culinary scene is equally on point, whether it's fine dining or simple street tacos. Tacos Fenix was a personal favorite. This humble street cart already has a line by 9 a.m. as locals and visitors come for the fresh, flaky, battered fish and shrimp tacos wrapped in fluffy flour tortillas. Another top taco spot in town is Tacos El Chente, not far from the water, which has succulent tacos al pastor and tacos arrachera.
Another hugely popular restaurant in Ensenada is La Guerrerense, home to both a restaurant and a cart dishing out seafood tostadas that are legendary. Experts will give the advice to skip the restaurant and head straight for the cart -- and to go early because the tostadas sell fast. For something a little different, Il Massimo is a cozy, casual Italian eatery run by a chef from Rome who makes exceptional cacio e pepe and other handmade pastas.
Where to stay in Ensenada
Arguably the best place to stay in Ensenada is at the Hotel Coral Marina. This waterfront, four-star hotel has spacious rooms, a wonderful restaurant, indoor and outdoor pools and a fitness center. It's located along the main highway just a bit outside of downtown and has wonderful views of the marina and the ocean.
Fish tacos from Tacos Fenix in Ensenada. Photo Credit: Meagan Drillinger
While Ensenada does not have the best beaches in Mexico, it is just a short drive from the seafront city of Rosarito. Rosarito's beaches are really something special, with wide, expansive stretches of sand that extend seemingly forever. Rosarito is another excellent city to visit for its restaurants, art galleries, shopping and resorts. But the beaches are an absolute must. Be sure to stop in the small village of Puerto Nuevo between Rosarito and Ensenada. This small village has an exceptional reputation for serving fresh (and cheap) lobster dinners.
All in all, while my extended stay in Baja California was an unplanned one, it was a reminder that the unexpected are the best parts of travel. Discovering slices of destinations that we have never experienced before is part of why we all love travel in the first place. Ensenada was a welcome learning experience and shed a new light for me on a very old and interesting corner of the country.